Aero007
07-28-2007, 06:28 PM
I have seen there's a couple of threads goin on abt 23 mm hexes, so decided to applic this 'little' thread for itself.
Hold on for some 23 mm hex talk fellaz!!! i warned u!
this is mainly focus on 23 mm hexes and the best choice as i see it, and relating to 14 and 17 mm hexes too. And this is written strictly in my poor educated english, and the poor experience in hexy nutties i got so far, and include my assumptions too, cos i havent tried evey hex out there..
now gotten rid of the surfers, i'll go into details and 'kostanize' it all..
"just wanna mention", that i think the difference in any <23 mm>hex nuts' apllication for TRUCKS, there are two types, that differ in the BACK/INSIDE wall of the hex (the side/inside part that touch the bearing)
if it says 'fits savage', there's a slight distance (like a tiny washer) on the back that touches the bearing. maybe thats becos then the hex wont ride on the plastic, and instead on the bearing ? the tmax and emax might not have this, or even more of this ? someone who has experience in traxxas could confirm or deny this ? i just got myself some proline 23 mm hexes, and had to pick from either savage or revo/tmaxx(or was it emax..)
i havent seen closely on any other version than the ones i have for my e-savage, and they all look the same (compared to my stock 14 mm and 17 mm 'e-savage' hex nuts in the 'back' by having a little alu close to the shaft/hole that touches the bearing.
and then there are at least 3 types of either savage or tmaxx 23 mm hexes:
the ones WITH a grub screw, will NOT allow u to remove the wheels WITHOUT the hex nut off the wheel (it stays mounted on the wheel shaft, unless u remove grub screws and pin of course), OR removing the two grub screws, so one has to choose what screws to loosen. this is GOOD for NOT losing that tiny pin, but BAD as u have to keep ruining the rim, when removing wheel, by the big outside threaded 23 mm nut for tightening the rim onto the nut, this depends on how much u tighten it of course. and the stock nut goes INSIDE the 23 mm hex nut. I have also seen some covers in blue, that can hide this, which I intend to get. (pls submit a link guys) u still have to remove BOTH outside nuts fx. to get the knuckles off the truck.
it means that either u remove two grub screws + stock shaft screw. OR stock haft screw + the 23 mm hex tightener nut. at least two screws.
----
the ones WITHOUT any grub screws for securing, WILL make it possible to remove wheel still having the hex nut 'bolted' on the rim/wheel. This is BAD since u could loose that small pin that goes thru the shaft, but GOOD as u dont keep messing with the outside 23 mm threaded hex tightener nut, saving the rim from eatening that way, and saving ur paint job as well.
u will ONLY need to remove the stock 5 mm shaft screw, AND the 23 mm threaded tightener nut. at least two screws.
----
and onto another applicaple hex nut, i have seen: clamp-style hex.
a link goes here for example:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERF0&P=7
I havent seen any 23 mm hexes that addingly works in the way by 'clamping' onto the shaft, having a grub screw on a side, this type i have seen these in 14 mm hexes. i THINK the main idea in this, is to make the hex stick in place, to not make the pin fall away, OR to make the pin have lesser 'play', i doubt that the last is the idea though.
----
another different kind of 23 mm hexes: (these i like ALOT, but havent tried)
these 23 mm hexes in this link, SEEMS to be a good choice, they arent exactly the same type as any of those above, other than they fit 23 mm wheels, ehh..! the way i see it, they work different, cos they DONT have any large thread to go thru the wheel center hole, and NEITHER any outer 23 mm nut for tightening. they ONLY use the stock wheel nut for tightening on, and they DONT have any grub screws, instead they have a band/rubber packing/ring that is worn around the hex, this packing keeps the pin in place. i think its BAD in the long run, since these bands would, with time, get worn, dry out and fall off, but in case its easy to replace these packings(get replacement packings), its no bigger worry. That could also <requires a little mod> be fixed by threadening in a grub screw thread to keep the pin in place, and if the pin would be too long (likely!) one could use the original pin. using a shorter pin here, would probably compromise on the durability, if that even is applicaple anyways!
Whats REALLY GOOD, is that these hexes use a 'smart washer' or something, that extends into the wheel hole, to touch the inner/back side of the 23 mm hex, these replace any big 23 mm outer hex threaded tightening nut, and is pure round dialed, this could save the wheel center from being thrashed by a nut. having a 23 mm nut constantly taken off and on couldwear on the wheel center mount place, unless u slip on a washer of appropiate size. but here washer is not needed, just the stock wheel nut.
using the black stock wheel nut to both the hex parts together, one can be sure not to bolt the plastic aroung the rim's center hole too thin/ruin the wheel mount. it MAY be possible that the wheel is allowed to flex more cos of this. I though doubt this could be a problem, unless u hold the truck in hand and bottom out the throttle, and that isnt really relative to a bash, since nobody runs in 'mid air' or something.
these hexes here will also do very fine on any 23 mm CHROME wheels - all u need to do is find some chrome 5 mm stock nuts, to mount it all. only ONE screw needed for wheel removal + a packing/rubber band. u still need to keep track one that tiny pin goin thru the shaft..
https://host446.ipowerweb.com/~acncmcom/osCommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=56&osCsid=e99b1f50fbf01061dc7327db5e0e36dd (https://host446.ipowerweb.com/%7Eacncmcom/osCommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=56&osCsid=e99b1f50fbf01061dc7327db5e0e36dd)
i picked regular blue 23 mm pro line hexes without grub screws costing almost 30 dollars, just need to get me some blue alu covers for the 23 mm threads, so i stick with what i paid for
but for the rich daughter <son> there obviously is some options..
what do u think of those 23 mm hexes from 'ACNCM' ? Would become 'TRANS-ACNCM', if i ordered them. Please try them out somebody, to see it they are awesome! They might be the best choice ? DEFINITELY wouldn't make u look for a stupid 23 mm socket along with a stupid chrome vanadium wrench!:mad:
just my 60 mph..
Hold on for some 23 mm hex talk fellaz!!! i warned u!
this is mainly focus on 23 mm hexes and the best choice as i see it, and relating to 14 and 17 mm hexes too. And this is written strictly in my poor educated english, and the poor experience in hexy nutties i got so far, and include my assumptions too, cos i havent tried evey hex out there..
now gotten rid of the surfers, i'll go into details and 'kostanize' it all..
"just wanna mention", that i think the difference in any <23 mm>hex nuts' apllication for TRUCKS, there are two types, that differ in the BACK/INSIDE wall of the hex (the side/inside part that touch the bearing)
if it says 'fits savage', there's a slight distance (like a tiny washer) on the back that touches the bearing. maybe thats becos then the hex wont ride on the plastic, and instead on the bearing ? the tmax and emax might not have this, or even more of this ? someone who has experience in traxxas could confirm or deny this ? i just got myself some proline 23 mm hexes, and had to pick from either savage or revo/tmaxx(or was it emax..)
i havent seen closely on any other version than the ones i have for my e-savage, and they all look the same (compared to my stock 14 mm and 17 mm 'e-savage' hex nuts in the 'back' by having a little alu close to the shaft/hole that touches the bearing.
and then there are at least 3 types of either savage or tmaxx 23 mm hexes:
the ones WITH a grub screw, will NOT allow u to remove the wheels WITHOUT the hex nut off the wheel (it stays mounted on the wheel shaft, unless u remove grub screws and pin of course), OR removing the two grub screws, so one has to choose what screws to loosen. this is GOOD for NOT losing that tiny pin, but BAD as u have to keep ruining the rim, when removing wheel, by the big outside threaded 23 mm nut for tightening the rim onto the nut, this depends on how much u tighten it of course. and the stock nut goes INSIDE the 23 mm hex nut. I have also seen some covers in blue, that can hide this, which I intend to get. (pls submit a link guys) u still have to remove BOTH outside nuts fx. to get the knuckles off the truck.
it means that either u remove two grub screws + stock shaft screw. OR stock haft screw + the 23 mm hex tightener nut. at least two screws.
----
the ones WITHOUT any grub screws for securing, WILL make it possible to remove wheel still having the hex nut 'bolted' on the rim/wheel. This is BAD since u could loose that small pin that goes thru the shaft, but GOOD as u dont keep messing with the outside 23 mm threaded hex tightener nut, saving the rim from eatening that way, and saving ur paint job as well.
u will ONLY need to remove the stock 5 mm shaft screw, AND the 23 mm threaded tightener nut. at least two screws.
----
and onto another applicaple hex nut, i have seen: clamp-style hex.
a link goes here for example:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXERF0&P=7
I havent seen any 23 mm hexes that addingly works in the way by 'clamping' onto the shaft, having a grub screw on a side, this type i have seen these in 14 mm hexes. i THINK the main idea in this, is to make the hex stick in place, to not make the pin fall away, OR to make the pin have lesser 'play', i doubt that the last is the idea though.
----
another different kind of 23 mm hexes: (these i like ALOT, but havent tried)
these 23 mm hexes in this link, SEEMS to be a good choice, they arent exactly the same type as any of those above, other than they fit 23 mm wheels, ehh..! the way i see it, they work different, cos they DONT have any large thread to go thru the wheel center hole, and NEITHER any outer 23 mm nut for tightening. they ONLY use the stock wheel nut for tightening on, and they DONT have any grub screws, instead they have a band/rubber packing/ring that is worn around the hex, this packing keeps the pin in place. i think its BAD in the long run, since these bands would, with time, get worn, dry out and fall off, but in case its easy to replace these packings(get replacement packings), its no bigger worry. That could also <requires a little mod> be fixed by threadening in a grub screw thread to keep the pin in place, and if the pin would be too long (likely!) one could use the original pin. using a shorter pin here, would probably compromise on the durability, if that even is applicaple anyways!
Whats REALLY GOOD, is that these hexes use a 'smart washer' or something, that extends into the wheel hole, to touch the inner/back side of the 23 mm hex, these replace any big 23 mm outer hex threaded tightening nut, and is pure round dialed, this could save the wheel center from being thrashed by a nut. having a 23 mm nut constantly taken off and on couldwear on the wheel center mount place, unless u slip on a washer of appropiate size. but here washer is not needed, just the stock wheel nut.
using the black stock wheel nut to both the hex parts together, one can be sure not to bolt the plastic aroung the rim's center hole too thin/ruin the wheel mount. it MAY be possible that the wheel is allowed to flex more cos of this. I though doubt this could be a problem, unless u hold the truck in hand and bottom out the throttle, and that isnt really relative to a bash, since nobody runs in 'mid air' or something.
these hexes here will also do very fine on any 23 mm CHROME wheels - all u need to do is find some chrome 5 mm stock nuts, to mount it all. only ONE screw needed for wheel removal + a packing/rubber band. u still need to keep track one that tiny pin goin thru the shaft..
https://host446.ipowerweb.com/~acncmcom/osCommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=56&osCsid=e99b1f50fbf01061dc7327db5e0e36dd (https://host446.ipowerweb.com/%7Eacncmcom/osCommerce/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=56&osCsid=e99b1f50fbf01061dc7327db5e0e36dd)
i picked regular blue 23 mm pro line hexes without grub screws costing almost 30 dollars, just need to get me some blue alu covers for the 23 mm threads, so i stick with what i paid for
but for the rich daughter <son> there obviously is some options..
what do u think of those 23 mm hexes from 'ACNCM' ? Would become 'TRANS-ACNCM', if i ordered them. Please try them out somebody, to see it they are awesome! They might be the best choice ? DEFINITELY wouldn't make u look for a stupid 23 mm socket along with a stupid chrome vanadium wrench!:mad:
just my 60 mph..